I was planning a different kind of trip this time. It was the first time traveling alone after marring and starting a family about eight years ago. I was going to Brazil for a wedding, I had a few days all by myself before my return to California, and I knew I wanted to find and explore nature in its purest form. I had heard about the Serra da Canstra National Park through a very good friend who is also the founder and one of the guides of Maritaca Turismo, a tour operator in the National Park.
Serra da Canstra is located in the region of Minas Gerais about 400 miles from Rio and 300 miles from Sao Paulo in a north-easterly direction and it was made a National Park in an attempt to preserve the native flora and fauna that was succumbing to the consequences of heavily farmed land. The best translation for the word serra I found is massif, a geological term meaning a large block of the earth’s crust bounded by faults usually more rigid than the surrounding rocks that has been displaced forming the peaks of a mountain range. The Sao Francisco River and the Parana’ River , two major fresh water resources for the whole country, are born in the Serra da Canastra National Park which sits tall between the hydrographic valleys created by these two bodies of water.
My adventure started in Sacramento, Minas Gerais, at the Maritaca Turismo headquarters. I wanted to visit the offices since I knew that they were decorated with original furniture and art made with recycled materials. There I got to meet our worthy and stylish medium of transportation: a jungle green Land Rover.
Exploring the inside I found that there was plenty of room for five people and their luggage plus it had four foldable extra seats in the rear. The jeep was set up to hold extra bags on the top if necessary.
Also on the top there two more seats as well as spotting lights so that if you were lucky enough to be around some night animal action you wouldn’t miss it! Yes, Maritaca Turismo allows you to take in the Brazilian Savanna from 10 plus feet off the ground. As the guide slowly covers miles of dirt road or just stops ,you can squint into the vegetation looking for movement or admire the many inspiring views.
I also saw first aid kits, flash lights, bug repellent lotions (although we did not need them at all during this time of the year), plenty of drinking water and our cooler with some food. The cups were wrapped in bags so they wouldn’t be too dusty by the time we would need them, because dust was present at all times through this trip.
I was excited to spot a whole compartment in the jeep dedicated to books and charts to help you identify and learn about the birds, insects, butterflies and other critters in the surrounding area. Along with the books I could see several pair of binoculars and I quickly caught on to the fact that having one around your neck (or your shoulders as some were to be worn like backpacks, and that was a big plus) would greatly increase the chances of not only spotting but also more thoroughly observing animals.
Then it was time to get into the Land Rover and start our journey to the National Park. Reaching the Park itself it is not as easy as one may assume. From Sacramento there are miles and miles to be crossed on dirt roads that are very poorly if at all maintained. Despite this the ride was surprisingly comfortable.
We started by crossing vast areas of farm land. I thought that even these areas looked quite wild .Grains and sugar cane were being cultivated and numerous cows, bulls and their calves could be observed leisurely ruminating in the pastures.
The landscape around us was gently changing from flat rich green pasture to streams surrounded by thick jungle with plenty of shade.
Whichever direction you looked the view was as vast as the human eye could handle, revealing the geological formations of the Serras ahead. Anytime the very deep red road that extended infinitely in front of the jeep windshield was crossing a stream it was engulfed in a tunnel of trees.
These were tunnels of life. Flashes of cobalt blue or bright orange showed between the thick foliage as the butterflies fluttered around. Besides the Blue Morpho Butterfly I was surprised to find Monarchs, the well known North American butterflies that migrate 2.500 miles each year in search of warmer winter grounds. The guide explained that these were also great places for Arachnology enthusiasts.
Although I have not spent time identifying the spiders yet, I brought home photographic proof of an eight-legged animal with thin white stripes along its deep green 4-5 inch body. Its beauty spread along its web which reached clear across two low branches at least 3 feet wide.
I still remember the depth and the range of greens in the foliage on the trees closing around the streams and accompanying them to distant places. The feeling was of going through enchanted passes. As we continued on our way up towards the Serra da Canastra National Park, the surrounding flora showed our ascent: the Atlantic Forest, Mata Atlantica, giving space to the Brazilian Savanna, Serrado. The thick tall tress, the enormous amount of foliage suddenly was disappearing to show a low vegetation of different grasses, bushes and tortuous sporadic trees.
Splashes of purple, white, and yellow flowers were dotting the landscape. Even though I had to repeatedly ask to stop because I couldn’t resist the urge to observe everything at close range and to snap as many pictures as I could, we did make it to the gate of the National Park eventually and before closing time! One must get into the Park by 4:00 PM and leave by 7:00 PM as overnight stays are not allowed. Once in the Park the presence of the birds became overwhelming.
We were able to spot quite a few even before entering the Serra da Canastra, but inside was truly heaven for the ornithologist. In less then 48 hours, greatly thanks to my guide, I was able to spot over 30 different species of birds. From the Tucanacu or Toco tucan in English (Ramphastos toco) to the Canario-do-campo or Wedged-tailed-grass-finch (Emberizoides herbicola) it was a spectacle of colors, and a symphony of songs (I have put together at the end of this report a list of all the birds spotted. It is to my knowledge as accurate as possible). 
Most of the fauna seemed to be in fact well tuned to its surroundings. There are plenty of large animals that inhabit the Brazilian Savanna Ecosystem. I felt as I could perceive their movements although I was not so lucky to meet them. For instance I missed the Tamandua-bandeira or Giant Anteater (Myimecophaga tridactyla) and the Ema (Reha Americana), to mention just a few. I was lucky enough for a treat: we spotted and shot a couple of pictures of Lobo-guara or Maned-wolf (Chrysocyon brachyurus) scat with abundant clues on what its diet had been recently.
Because of the two big rivers previously mentioned there are a large number of springs that can be found. And because of the massif a large number of waterfalls as well. It is breathtaking to watch even at a distance the water cascading and bringing the beauty of this place to a whole new level. Water flowing from inside the earth is the ultimate symbol of life. The big and small water falls are a great attraction and can be accessed without too much trouble.
We left the park after sundown and headed to Sao Batista da Serra da Canastra to find our modest but clean and confortable hotel. The best part about it was waking up in the morning and staring at a tall and majestic water fall straight across from my room window. A short drive and a short walk and we were standing right next to its pools. I found diving in their chilly waters a must! I did not have a thermometer for proper measurement but my best guess would be that the temperature was around 60o F/16o C.
Perfect for Soul washing!
Last but not least, everything was also delicious! The food throughout this region was very tasty and not only home cooked, but in many instances all the ingredients were coming from the cook’s own garden and orchard. The first such meal of my tour was at Dona Ivone’s house. She is a superb chef of all sweets and built a business around her talent. She is also a very gracious host. After coffee, freshly baked cheese breads, on the spot fried biscuits, ginger and mint jelly on crackers accompanied by great conversation, I hardly wanted to leave her inviting house and the land around it.
The end to the adventure came too quickly since I did not have a lot of time. Yet I walked away from the trip feeling content with all I had learned and in awe with my close encounter with nature. I recommend the wonderful services of Maritaca Turismo and their knowledgeable staff to the curious nature lover, the biologist or ornithologist student, the nature photographer, and the adventurous that have had enough of watching beautiful nature shows from their couches.
Maritaca Turismo is also involved in the conservation and restoration of land surrounding the Park. They coordinate projects such as replanting native trees in areas that have been cleared for building or farming reasons. These projects bring a lot of ecological awareness to the local towns, but also build a stronger commitment between Maritaca Turismo and the Serra da Canstra region. Such commitment can be felt in the organized and responsible way in which they run the whole operation.
BIRD LIST (English name-scientific name-Portuguese name)
Great Kiskadee Pitangus sulphuratus Bem-te-vi
Sayca Tanager Thraupis sayaca Sanhacu
Burnished-buff Tanager Tangara cayana Saira Amarela
Souther-beardless Tyrannulet Camptostoma obsoletum Risadinha
Peach-fronted Parakeet Aratingua aurea Pererquito Rei
Rofous-collard Sparrow Zonotrichia capensis Tico-tico
Crested Caracara Polyborus plancus Carcara
Magpie Tanager Cissopis leverianus Tietinga
Crested Oropendola Psaracolius decumanus Japu
White-rumped Monjita Xolmis velatus Noivinha-branca
Scaled Dove Columbina sqammata Fogo Apagou
Brown-chested Martin Poogne tapeira Andorinha do Campo
Blue-and-white Swallow Pygochelidon cyanoleuca A. Pequena de Casa
Tropical Kingbird Tyrannus melancholicus Suiriri
Buff-necked Ibis Theristicus caudatus Curicaca
Wedged-taild Grass-finch Emberizoides herbicola Canario do Campo
Ruddy-ground Dove Columbia talpacoti Rolinha Roxa
Cattle Egret Bubulcus Ibis Garca Vaqueira
Yellow-headed Caracara Milvago chimachima Carrapateiro
Guira Cukoo Guira guira Anu Branco
Black-bellied Whistiling-duck Dendrocygna autumnalis Asa Branca
Yellow-rumped Marshbird Pseudoleistes guirahuro Chopim-do-brejo
Crested-black Tyrant Knipolegus lophotes Maria-preta-de-penacho
Chalk-browed Mockingbird Mimus saturninus Sabia' do Campo
Toco Tucan Ramphastos toco Tucanacu
Campo Flicker Colaptes campestris Pica-pau do Campo
Crested Cariama Cariama cristata Siriema
White-tailed Hawk Buteo albicaudatus Gaviao-do-rabo-branco
Rofous Hornero Furnario rufos Joao-de-barro
Rofou-bellied Thrush Turdus Rufiventris Sabia’ Laranjeira
Chiara Spada-Sherman
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